Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies

Introduction to Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies

The Rocky Mountains stretch along the western edge of the North American continent. In Canada they reach from the International Boundary in the south to the Liard River in the north. The crest of the Rockies forms the Continental Divide and for more than 800 kilometres forms the boundary between the provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Rocky Mountain streams drain into three oceans. Streams on the west slope flow into the Fraser and Columbia rivers, then west to the Pacific Ocean. Across the Divide the east slope streams flow into the Saskatchewan River, then northeast to Hudson Bay and on to the Atlantic Ocean; farther north the east slope streams flow through the Athabasca River to the Mackenzie River and the Arctic Ocean.
The Rockies are bordered by the Great Plains to the east and by the Columbia Mountains to the west. The Columbias include the Purcell, Selkirk, Monashee and Cariboo mountains and are separated from the Rockies by the Rocky Mountain Trench, a massive valley system created by faults. Most of the Canadian Rockies are of sedimentary origin and limestone and shale are the most common rocks. There are, however, some notable exceptions such as the lava layers and volcanic rocks to the south of Crowsnest Pass.

The Rockies are commonly divided into four distinct zones in an east-west direction. The foothills border the great plains and are a region of sandstone and shale hills and ridges usually covered by grass, Douglas fir and limber pine in the south but forested in the north. There’s some good early season cycling to be found in the foothills. West of the foothills the jagged and rugged limestone peaks of the front ranges clearly define the eastern edge of the mountains. This region tends to be hot and dry in summer and many of the creeks are without water by mid-season. The front ranges offer excellent cycling on good trails. Farther west the front ranges grade into the main ranges, a region of high peaks and glaciers along the Continental Divide. The main ranges do not exist in the extreme south, but farther north they provide some fabulous high-elevation summer cycling. The western ranges lie between the main ranges and the Rocky Mountain Trench and are composed largely of metamorphic rocks with a distinct shale-like character. The trails here tend to be steep with lots of elevation gain. The trench is a deep and broad valley occupied by the Fraser, Columbia and Kootenay rivers. In the north it is heavily forested, but farther south grasslands predominate.

The trails in this book (with a few transgressions west of the trench) are restricted to the Rockies. Included are trails from the International Boundary in the south to the vicinity of Grande Cache and McBride in the north. A territory of this size contains hundreds of trails and I managed to test ride well over 300 of them. You will find more than 200 of the best trails described here along with some substantial options.

This book is separated into five cycling areas based on the riding experiences available, the main access routes and the nature of the country.

The Southern Rockies lie just north of the International Boundary and include both the east and west slopes in an area of colourful mountains. The region is typified by numerous cyclable passes across the Continental Divide and access on gravel roads of varying quality.

The Central East Slopes provide superb cycling on an extensive network of good trails. The area typically has paved-road access and is complemented by resorts and recreational facilities.

The Kootenay and Columbia cycling area lies west of the Divide on the Pacific slope and is a land of deep valleys with grasslands and lush forests. It holds a wide variety of cycling opportunities complemented by warm lakes and numerous resort communities.

To the north lies the Fraser Valley, similar to the Columbia in many ways but much wilder and more remote.

To the east across the Divide is the Northern East Slopes cycling area characterized by a relatively wild landscape with a northern feel. Here the typical cycling experience is a long ride through remote country.

Each of these areas is described further in a separate area-introduction.

The Canadian Rockies is a range of 4000 metre-high peaks and many areas have considerable vertical relief. The lowest trailhead elevation in this book is 730 metres at McBride and the highest rideable trail is on the summit of Canoe Mountain at an elevation of 2654 metres. Elevation gains in the range of 500-1500 metres are common on many of the trails.

Variety is the word best describing Rocky Mountain weather. Warm or cold temperatures can occur at any time of the year so it’s best to be prepared. Spring can be warm and some trails on the east slopes and in the valley bottom of the Rocky Mountain Trench may be rideable as early as April, but the riding season really gets underway in May. June tends to be the wettest month. In June, July and August the days are warm enough to ride wearing shorts and a jersey, and the strong summer sunshine makes sunscreen standard equipment. July and August are the warmest months, usually providing excellent cycling at all elevations. Average temperatures are considerably cooler in September and more so in October, but this is a wonderful time of the year for cycling. The days are warm and the autumn colours and new snow add a magical touch to the landscape. Mountain weather can be very unpredictable. No matter how hot and sunny the weather is when you start out in the morning, take a rain jacket and an extra layer of insulation—it can rain or snow when you least expect it. The temperature can drop quickly in the mountain environment and frost is not uncommon at night, even after a warm day. While snow may fall at any time of the year, you can count on it in September and October.

Obtaining drinking water from the streams and lakes along the trails is a special concern for backcountry travellers. Bad water may lead to infection by Giardia lamblia, a protozoan causing diarrhea, nausea, severe stomach cramps and listlessness. The infective strain is most commonly found in dogs, humans and beavers, and sometimes goes by the name “beaver fever.” The organism enters waterways through the feces of these animals, and streams in the valley bottoms, along which many of the trails lead, are more likely to be contaminated. This is especially true in the foothills, where most streams are shared with cattle. Always start a backcountry cycling trip with a full supply of water and only collect drinking water from small springs and creeks. Larger streams receive water from a larger watershed and are more likely to be contaminated. I have used water from many of the routes in this guide with no ill effects, but that does not guarantee that the water is safe. The decision, and the risk, is yours.