Hans Gmoser
The task of the historian, to grasp and then to convey what really transpired, is a difficult one in the best of circumstances. Even if the historian has been witness to the events he chronicles, his recollection is tainted by his biases and by the interpretive filters then applied by journalists, commentators and analysts. Add to this the fact that the accounts which form the basis of historical compilation are mostly written or recounted by people who want to put, what is for them, the most favourable light on events. Thus, the task of relating past events reasonably accurately becomes very daunting indeed. These, however, are only the preliminary difficulties Chic Scott faced when he set out to write a history of Canadian mountaineering.

While he could rely on a fairly comprehensive written record of most of the climbs and could interview many of the climbers of the last six decades, he had the enormous task of separating the wheat from the chaff. Things became even more difficult as he entered the realm of the earliest climbing journals. Most of these accounts stem from the person who fancied himself the principal player in each of these expeditions and hardly ever is there any other written corroborating account. At best there are occasional verbal accounts passed down through a few generations and across a number of social strata.

Chic Scott dealt with these difficulties in a highly impressive fashion. Especially in chronicling those early climbs where legend had become accepted truth he has applied his ability to critically research every shred of information, carefully examine each in the light of the other and arrive at conclusions which contradict some of the old stories. In his monumental, thorough and encompassing historical work he has given us a very clear portrait of our mountaineering past.

But not only has he shed light on some of the puzzling accounts of early climbs, he also reminds us that the tapestry of our mountaineering history is as varied as our country, and that it is populated by the same diverse mix of people as Canada itself. He weaves a continuous thread along the shores of the St. Lawrence River, to the impressive mountain faces in northern Labrador, to the stark peaks in the arctic, to the mountains of Himalayan proportion in the Yukon, and to the peaks in the vast mountain ranges of the Canadian West. There is a sense of affinity binding the members of the climbing community from every part of Canada and from every ethnic background.
Indeed, this book is more than a history of Canadian mountaineering; it reminds us forcefully that we are one country and that we share a common culture.

Brian Greenwood
Today, thanks to modern entertainment moguls, climbing is seen as an extreme sport, full of hype and glitz, whether practiced on indoor artificial walls or on the slopes of the world's highest mountains. It wasn't always this way. The sport of moutaineering has been evolving for well over 100 years, and we are fortunate here in Canada to have Chic Scott writing the first comprehensive history of Canadian climbing. Chic has been a climber of the first rank for almost 40 years, and he can be counted on for the essential objectivity of a historian, rather than the hype of a writer seeking unnecessary sensationalism.

When I think about Canadian climbing, I like to think of the pioneers. With the railways for many years the only means of access to the mountains, it's easy to see why the Alpine Club of Canada camps were so popular. Just getting to the base of most mountains in the early days involved trail building, bushwhacking, pack trains, often major expeditions. The Canadian Pacific Railway, attempting to sell the Rockies as a second Switzerland, employed Swiss guides, and they, along with their clients, were responsible for most of the first ascents of Rockies peaks.
Conrad Kain, an Austrian guide brought to Canada by the Alpine Club of Canada, was also a major influence. Mount Robson, Mount Louis, and the gendarme of Bugaboo Spire especially remind me of him. After Kain and MacCarthy made the first ascent of Mt. Louis in 1916, it is said that Kain looked back from Edith Pass and said, "Ye gods Mr. MacCarthy, they'll never believe we climbed it!"

Keep in mind that it was only in the 1930s that the most rudimentary roads appeared in the Rockies, and not until the late fifties that today’s roads were built, providing much better access to many of the peaks. Canadian mountaineering started taking on a new look and a new direction in the late fifties and early sixties, sparked by new immigrants with their experiences of European climbing. It continued to be fuelled by other new arrivals during the late sixties and early seventies. But of most significance was the growing number of Canadian-born climbers coming to the forefront—Scott was one of these—and their ever-increasing contributions in the mountaineering world.
Having done all my climbing out of Calgary and Banff, I tend to have a slightly provincial attitude and to be less familiar with climbing in the rest of Canada. Fortunately, Scott was not that way inclined; he has travelled widely across this country conducting scores of interviews, to produce a comprehensive history of Canadian mountaineering.
While it is difficult to envision much advance on the standards of today, and keeping in mind that today’s ladies are likely to be on the sharp end, I am reminded of Mummery, when speaking of the first ascent of the Grépon in the Chamonix Aiguilles, “An impossible climb! The most difficult climb in the Alps! An easy day for a lady.”

It has been almost 40 years since I discovered the magic of high places. During this time I have dedicated my life to the mountains and to climbing. Slowly the dream of writing the history of Canadian climbing grew and today that dream is a reality. To complete my research I have read all the old climbing books and several thousand journal articles. I crossed the country three times recording 90 interviews and I looked at tens of thousands of photographs. After three years of work I submitted a 400,000 word manuscript and 800 scanned images to my editor Gill Daffern at Rocky Mountain Books. It then took another full year to edit the manuscript to a manageable size. Finally another eighteen months of layout and design turned it all into the volume you hold in your hands.

It has been a tremendous adventure for me visiting the regions of Canada, and the entire mountain community has been positive and cooperative. West coast climbers were willing to share their stories and photos with me. In Québec I sat in many kitchens, speaking French and hearing their stories of mountain adventure. My experience confirmed that the differences between climbers in this country are only skin deep and a little understanding goes a long way.

Through all of this I have lived on a budget that would make a student choke. At one point I could not afford rent so I slept in my tent in the Yamnuska Meadows. Unfortunately, I was forced to sell my collection of CAJs and AAJs just to survive.

The title says it all. Pushing the Limits is about the leading edge climbers who have explored the boundaries of what is possible. I know this is only one way to look at climbing history but it is a valid one. It was hard to draw the line on who or what to include and my sincere apologies if you or your finest climb were not included. Although the book attempts to be comprehensive it does not include every climb ever made in Canada. What is special about the book, however, is that it does spread the spotlight around. Usually we celebrate only half a dozen well-known climbers in this country, but this volume brings attention to several hundred fine climbers who have pursued their passion in obscurity for years.

Although the climbing community across this country is divided by regions the climbers and their history are similar. They all climb for the same reasons: adventure, friendship, nature, hard physical exercise and spiritual growth. And they all have been influenced by the same forces, most notably the arrival of European and British immigrants after World War II. Canadian climbing is based on three pillars: a tradition of modesty and understatement inherited from our British roots, a tradition of skill and competence inherited from the Swiss and Austrian guides and a tremendous respect for the mountains as wilderness. We have one of the most agreeable climbing communities in the whole world. I hope this book serves to further this sense of identity and pride amongst Canadian climbers.

So here it is, the book you have heard rumours of for the last five years. I have done my very best to produce a work that we will all be proud of—one that will be read and re-read for generations to come. I hope you enjoy it.