Mixed Climbs in the Canadian Rockies Updates Grotto Canyon This route will not end up in Sean Isaac's new mixed guide as the info was late. Anyway here are the goods for the coming season. "Bisexual Piton" WI2-3,5.8,50m FA-Greg Cornell and Gavin Macrae, April 2000 Good gear-med. Friends, Tricams, nuts Climb the first pitch of Grotto Falls to the 2-bolt belay on the left. Make sure there is no line-up of climbers below, then traverse right and around a rock bulge to a fixed piton. Climb the crack above a few moves then go out right into the big crack on the exposed prow and over a hard bulge to a good tree belay which has sling now. Rap to the ground. A pure rock pitch with crampons but let's all try to not drytool. This was drytooled on the first ascent and to keep with ethics, I wouldn't change someone else's route, and I believe ice picking your way up this soft limestone will change it's character over time. Greg Cornell (gerg4@hotmail.com)