Kanga Crag
So as not too confuse anyone who visits the wonderful Kanga Crag there is one missing line of bolts in the new Sport book likely because I was too late getting it in.

It is a traversing line of nine bolts to a Fixed Rap Station just to the right of "The Final Battle" and it is NOT a sport climb but yes, another practice aid route to round out the grades to try (sorry no A5's!). It is called Silent Partner and is A1. There are two rivets to be used in order to gain the ladder.

There is also another aid route on the sharp buttress between "Chief Chiniki Burgers" and a great climb called Brik Shiite Shak (10d). It is A2+ called Rez Dogs, and follows pins and thin gear, a bolt or two, and ends at the "Chiniki" anchors.
Greg Cornell (gerg4@hotmail.com)


New trad line on Kanga, too late likely for the new Bow Valley guide...If one stays to the crack, there should not be any complaints, as the rock in the same 'chute' is dirty. The crack is good and takes superb pro.

"Freeblast" 5.8, 12m
FA-Greg Cornell (solo climbing on a gadget called a Silent Partner)
Just to the left of the Kanga sport route Riff Raff climb up the crack in the chute which gets better as you go and sucks up big pro. Continue over a small bulge to the 2-bolt belay. Rap. Next year I hope to take the red tat of the bolts and put on rings or if someone wants to contribute 2 industrial biners that would be great and help the sport in eliminating gaudy tat from walls.
Greg Cornell (gerg4@hotmail.com)

Grotto Crag
These 9 routes built in spring 2000, climbed in October are all SPORT climbs on a new cliff in Grotto called THE UNCHARTED SEA.
Routes by Greg Cornell.

This crag will be a good spring/fall hangout as the wall faces SW and gets sun most of the day and the wind is minimal. It may be possible to make a visit here in the winter on warm days as a decision can be made from the highway if snow exists. It is easily visible from either highway as a black slab high above the area The Upper Right Wing or Alley. The climbs are on peculiar dark slab and is highly textured in spots. Wear a helmet here. All climbs are bolt protected and have Fixed Pig Ring anchors. Two routes need two ropes, the others are good for one.

Approach: Either enter Grotto Canyon and at the first major right-bend (about 200m) go up right into the forest and take a trail around the left side of a tiny rockband OR at the mouth of Grotto Canyon, go right onto an excellent trail and follow it above the creek to the same spot. From the tiny rockband, follow the trail over some flat white slabs and enter the forest. From here a good trail, flagged in spots/cairns, basically follows the treed ridge above Grotto Canyon and winds up eventually to the crag. **It looks like a long way but only takes 30 min.**

The trail comes out at the cliff's right end and so here are the routes starting on the right working to the left....

'Crypt Trip' 5.9/10 5 clips
'Iron Knickers' 5.9R (maybe) 3 clips
'Kamloops for Breakfast' 5.8 4 clips
'Leave Something Witchie' 5.8/9 4 clips
'Poop-a-si-a' 5.10b 4 clips
'Barbecued Planet' 5.7 6 clips
'Teflon Ocean Wall' 5.8 6 clips
'Like a big-wall climber from Modesto who's never been to Yosemite' 5.6 8 clips
'30 Minute Famine' 5.8/9 9 clips

Greg Cornell (gerg4@hotmail.com)